Final Days in South America

The Beagle channel lies before us and we are being boarded by our Argentian Pilot who will take us in to port, Ushuaia. We cruised slowly through the channel, Dusky Dolphins and Peale's Dolphins riding our bow waves, Magellanic Penguins swimming about (the 5th species we've seen this trip) and of course, the majestic Albatross seeing us in. Docking in Ushuaia was a little nerve racking, all of us hanging over the gunwales watching the captain back in and parallel park this big ship. We docked in the evening and were allowed to exit the ship for a night of pub crawling. We ventured into the small, active little town and I bought some of the crew drinks. Arlene was the last to stagger home down the dock in the wee hours. That shouldn't surprise any of us.

The next morning we were awakened bright and early by our expedition leader's voice for the last time. We were supposed to have been awake earlier but our alarm didn't go off. After boarding our buses we toured the Ushuaia prison, shopped in town for "end of the world" chocolate (which is very yummy and I didn't bring any home for any of you, just us), and then went up in the slopes of the Andes for a nice lunch (our last in Argentina). As we headed to the airport for our trip to Santiago I could see our ship in the distance. I was saddened to leave her and jealous of whomever was going to get our cabin. That was my cabin and I wasn't all that keen on giving it up.

The next 36 hours are somewhat of a haze. Dinner in Santiago at Azul Profundo (Deep Blue in spanish), overnighting at this crappy airport hotel Diego de Almagro, then two tortuous, long Copa Airline flights ending at 1:30 Monday morning. It's a shame the trip ended on such a low note with a surly flight crew and a two hour wait for the baggage.

Cabo de Hornos - Cape Horn

We actually touched the Antarctic Ocean, the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean today. The Captain took us within 4 miles of the Cape. Cape Horn is significant in marine history as it was extremely difficult to round this dangerous craggy piece of continent. The weather is always unpredicatable with waves in excess of 50´developing within minutes. Many sailors have perished trying to round the Horn and they are said to soar above on the silent wings of the Albatross. We were fortunate and had wonderful weather. Sometimes it is a challenge to get this close due to the fact that the Chileans don't like the ships that depart from Ushaiha (Argentina) to enter their territorial waters. Quite political the whole situation. On the point or Cape Horn there is a weather station, the Chilean flag and a monument. On the monument there is a poem:

I am the Albatross that awaits you
At the end of the earth
I am the forgotten soul of dead mariners
Who rounded Cape horn
But they did not perish
In the furious waves
Today they fly on my wings for all eternity
In the ultimate embrace
of the Antarctic wings

Dena's Birthday

Dena's birthday was very special for her for a large number of reasons. The morning started out with three humpback whales (which she adores) off the bow of the ship. They surface fed for quite a while allowing us to get some great photos. They were so close at one point that using the zoom was too close. It´s a very neat experience watching such a huge animal. They are quite graceful. It´s a little depressing to think that they were mercilessly slaughtered in the early 1900´s. After our whale watch stop we boogied over to the Enterprise Islands. We had a zodiac ride in the rain/snow and saw an old whaler wrecked on the rocks and the most spectacular iceberg ever. David (our naturalist and zodiac driver du jour) hung over the edge of the zodiac and grabbed a little bergie bit. He let all of us hold it and do our kodak moments. It was quite heavy. A silly thrill but it was fun.


Then off to Hydrurus Rock Island which is a seldom stopped at location as it is not well sheltered and the landing and swells can be quite challenging. The place was spectacular with many fur seals including a blond one which is quite rare. There were multitudes of chinstrap penguins all very close to us and blue eyed shags. Everyone on the island had babies. It´s so much fun just to watch all the drama in these penguin colonies. Our zodiac ride was adventurous both out and in. On the way to shore we had the Captain driving our zodiac. He´d never landed before on Hydrurus Rock so wanted to go check it out. He broke every rule in the book, driving us right up inside a U shaped berg that was partially submerged so we were litterally sitting on top of the iceberg. We then all got to touch it and have another kodak moment. Lots of those as you can imagine. Then he ran us up real close to the fur seals, another no no. But we appreciated all the fun for sure.
The way back to the boat the captain and the expedition leader got into a race and we roared back to the ship in 5 ´ swells with the bow of the zodiac flying all over the place. What a riot!

Dena´s day was topped off in fine fashion as the crew made tonight special. I had reserved a table for 8 and invited some of our newfound friends to join us for the celebration. (Henry and Nancy Geyer Philadelphia, Kathleen and Rachel McIntire Atlanta, Shannon Horner from Montreal, etc) The wine flowed and when it was time for dessert the stewards broke out the guitar and tamborine and sang 3 songs for her, one being Elvis's song, Fool´s Rush In

Dinner With Jay Dickman

Feb 10th Evening
We came back to our cabin to an invitation to dinner with Jay Dickman the National Geographic Photographer. We were certainly looking forward to this event and went back to the cabin to put on our best duds. We don't really have much in the fancy cruise ship dinner wear as our clothing choices focused mainly on warmth. But we found something. Dinner was wonderful with Dena being escorted to the table arm in arm with the first officer. We had a nice meal and more importantly some excellent conversation. Jay is a story teller and he certainly has many to tell. From Denengue Fever in Papau New Guinea to a war correspondent in Central America he's been through a lot and we enjoyed them all. The conversation eventually turned to good natured ribbing about how I broke my camera and how Canada is the 51st state, etc, etc. That's ok, Jay had spent months in the Yukon and couldn't say enough about what a beautiful country Canada is. We may be liberal in politics and be known as the country that is the party loft above a more serious USA but we are good people, we know how to have fun and enjoy life.

Cuverville Island

Sunday Feb. 10th, 2008

We arrived first thing this morning after a run south down the Antarctic Penisula to a small island called Cuverville. The bay we entered was calm as glass with glaciers calving into the sea, penguins porpoising all around us and a large Gentoo breeding colony on shore. Today, we kayaked. Dena has been excited about this moment from day 1. Dena and I cruised lazily around the bay stopping off shore of some rocks with many Gentoos jumping in and out of the water. They swam around us and we laughed at their antics. The water is so clear that we can see them swimming beside us. Truly magical. Dena then decided she wanted to go thru this thin ice with the Kayak. I didn't really like the idea as the water looked shallow. You could see the eddys around the rocks. But, we headed that way anyways. You know you're about to get into trouble when your paddle will not pierce the ice and rocks loom ahead. But we made it through (not withstanding a little panic on my part) and are richer for the experience.
After kayaking we went ashore to spend some quality time with the penguins up close and personal. I have a picture of Dena (which probably doesn't do it justice) sitting on a whale vertebra (sp?) looking at a Gentoo penguin who is laying on a whale rib about 3 feet in front of her. She probably sat there for 20 minutes, her looking at the Gentoo and it looking at her. We all sat on these large stones that make up the "beach" and just watched the drama of all these penguins coming and going. They look so clumsy as they make their way down this rocky beach to the water, then they literally dip their toe in the water as if to test it, back up, think about it and then wade in. I won't go on and on about the penguins and their babies and the molters so I don't bore you so I just get on to the end of the morning.

I was the last guest on the island. I don't know why this thrills me, but it does..... Dena and Arlene's boat was already in the water, they yelled to me that they hoped I had lots of protein bars because they were leaving me. The last boat (full of staff naturalists) had to wait for me (hehe) and we actually ended up having to tow Dena and Arlene's boat to the Endeavor. The motor had ice in the gas line. Well, it's off to lunch then Port Lockroy which is the only shopping opportunity in Antarctica. Who knew there would be a shopping opportunity.