I'm asked constantly how my trip was, was it fantastic? What are the stories? Was it cold? Did you see polar bears? And on and on are the questions. To be honest, the 7th continent defies description. My mind goes blank when I'm asked, how was your trip? To say that it was fantastic, awesome, breathtaking and beautiful is to insult this last bastion of wilderness. It's a landscape and seascape that all at once is colorless but yet so full of vibrant hues of blue and white as to cause you to shield your eyes. A place so devoid of life that it could be called barren, yet so full of life that I could sit for hours on her shores and just observe. To write and think about it swells my heart with joy but yet my eyes tear up.
Humankind's spirit is to explore and conquer. Even as children we need to know what is around the next bend and over the next hill. I suffer greatly from this genetic affliction. Had I been born centuries ago surely I would have been with Columbus, Cook, Magellan and Amundsen. Perhaps, if you believe in that sort of thing, I was one of them. On the National Geographic Endeavor I spent much time on the bridge quizzing the Officer of the Watch of our course, what latitude we were at and how far could we go. I wanted to go further. I needed to know what was behind that island and around that iceberg. The desire burned hot in a place so cold.
There's a saying among the people who live and work on the Ice: The first season you go for the adventure, the second season for the money, and the third because you no longer fit in anywhere else. That seems very apropos. I'll steal this comment from Lucy Jane Bledsoe (writer) that going to Antarctica is like have a love affair with an inappropriate lover. Well, actually, let me improve on her analogy. It's like having a love affair with an exotic woman. A woman who will thrill you one minute and crush you the next. It's an unpredictable place that humankind has yet to conquer but can't help but to keep trying. Perhaps it is my job now to become a steward of this amazing woman and try to help her stay wild and free.
This blog is a compilation of my random, often paranoid, cynical and even delusional thinking. This is a little bit of insight into my brain. It is frightening even to me, and I live here.... Or it could be about tomatoes....
Showing posts with label Antarctica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Antarctica. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Cabo de Hornos - Cape Horn

We actually touched the Antarctic Ocean, the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean today. The Captain took us within 4 miles of the Cape. Cape Horn is significant in marine history as it was extremely difficult to round this dangerous craggy piece of continent. The weather is always unpredicatable with waves in excess of 50´developing within minutes. Many sailors have perished trying to round the Horn and they are said to soar above on the silent wings of the Albatross. We were fortunate and had wonderful weather. Sometimes it is a challenge to get this close due to the fact that the Chileans don't like the ships that depart from Ushaiha (Argentina) to enter their territorial waters. Quite political the whole situation. On the point or Cape Horn there is a weather station, the Chilean flag and a monument. On the monument there is a poem:
I am the Albatross that awaits you
At the end of the earth
I am the forgotten soul of dead mariners
Who rounded Cape horn
But they did not perish
In the furious waves
Today they fly on my wings for all eternity
In the ultimate embrace
of the Antarctic wings
I am the Albatross that awaits you
At the end of the earth
I am the forgotten soul of dead mariners
Who rounded Cape horn
But they did not perish
In the furious waves
Today they fly on my wings for all eternity
In the ultimate embrace
of the Antarctic wings
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Heading North
We have left our last landing point in Antarctica and have began the journey across the Drake Passage to the Horn of South America (cape Horn). Tears well up in my eyes as I look out from the stern of the ship at this land that has touched my heart and soothed my soul. So barren a place, so alive a place I have never seen. Every iceberg holds a new wonder, every landing a new adventure, I can certainly see the draw that kept Shackleton and the rest coming back no matter the hardships. The Drake Passage was just the beginning for their arduous journey, for us, it is the end. They say you can get the polar bug and I believe I have it. I think not of home and the comforts that holds but think only of how I can come back here and when.
Every turn of the propeller sends us further north and Smith Island is off the starboard side of the ship. This is the last land we will see for ~ 2 days. Everything we do is the "last" of our trip. It's the last island we will see in Antarctica, the last whale, the last iceberg, the last sunset, the last........
"How hard it will be to become ordinary citizens again"cinemaphotographer, March of the Penguins
Life is not ordinary here, thus having experienced it, we are no longer ordinary citizens.
Every turn of the propeller sends us further north and Smith Island is off the starboard side of the ship. This is the last land we will see for ~ 2 days. Everything we do is the "last" of our trip. It's the last island we will see in Antarctica, the last whale, the last iceberg, the last sunset, the last........
I´m beginning to get seasick again. I have put on the patch behind my ear and am preparing myself for the side affects it gives me, dry mouth, sleepiness and blurry vision. Lovely, eh
"How hard it will be to become ordinary citizens again"cinemaphotographer, March of the Penguins
Life is not ordinary here, thus having experienced it, we are no longer ordinary citizens.
Dena's Birthday
Dena's birthday was very special for her for a large number of reasons. The morning started out with three humpback whales (which she adores) off the bow of the ship. They surface fed for quite a while allowing us to get some great photos. They were so close at one point that using the zoom was too close. It´s a very neat experience watching such a huge animal. They are quite graceful. It´s a little depressing to think that they were mercilessly slaughtered in the early 1900´s. After our whale watch stop we boogied over to the Enterprise Islands. We had a zodiac ride in the rain/snow and saw an old whaler wrecked on the rocks and the most spectacular iceberg ever. David (our naturalist and zodiac driver du jour) hung over the edge of the zodiac and grabbed a little bergie bit. He let all of us hold it and do our kodak moments. It was quite heavy. A silly thrill but it was fun.
Then off to Hydrurus Rock Island which is a seldom stopped at location as it is not well sheltered and the landing and swells can be quite challenging. The place was spectacular with many fur seals including a blond one which is quite rare. There were multitudes of chinstrap penguins all very close to us and blue eyed shags. Everyone on the island had babies. It´s so much fun just to watch all the drama in these penguin colonies. Our zodiac ride was adventurous both out and in. On the way to shore we had the Captain driving our zodiac. He´d never landed before on Hydrurus Rock so wanted to go check it out. He broke every rule in the book, driving us right up inside a U shaped berg that was partially submerged so we were litterally sitting on top of the iceberg. We then all got to touch it and have another kodak moment. Lots of those as you can imagine. Then he ran us up real close to the fur seals, another no no. But we appreciated all the fun for sure.
The way back to the boat the captain and the expedition leader got into a race and we roared back to the ship in 5 ´ swells with the bow of the zodiac flying all over the place. What a riot!
Dena´s day was topped off in fine fashion as the crew made tonight special. I had reserved a table for 8 and invited some of our newfound friends to join us for the celebration. (Henry and Nancy Geyer Philadelphia, Kathleen and Rachel McIntire Atlanta, Shannon Horner from Montreal, etc) The wine flowed and when it was time for dessert the stewards broke out the guitar and tamborine and sang 3 songs for her, one being Elvis's song, Fool´s Rush In
Then off to Hydrurus Rock Island which is a seldom stopped at location as it is not well sheltered and the landing and swells can be quite challenging. The place was spectacular with many fur seals including a blond one which is quite rare. There were multitudes of chinstrap penguins all very close to us and blue eyed shags. Everyone on the island had babies. It´s so much fun just to watch all the drama in these penguin colonies. Our zodiac ride was adventurous both out and in. On the way to shore we had the Captain driving our zodiac. He´d never landed before on Hydrurus Rock so wanted to go check it out. He broke every rule in the book, driving us right up inside a U shaped berg that was partially submerged so we were litterally sitting on top of the iceberg. We then all got to touch it and have another kodak moment. Lots of those as you can imagine. Then he ran us up real close to the fur seals, another no no. But we appreciated all the fun for sure.
The way back to the boat the captain and the expedition leader got into a race and we roared back to the ship in 5 ´ swells with the bow of the zodiac flying all over the place. What a riot!
Dena´s day was topped off in fine fashion as the crew made tonight special. I had reserved a table for 8 and invited some of our newfound friends to join us for the celebration. (Henry and Nancy Geyer Philadelphia, Kathleen and Rachel McIntire Atlanta, Shannon Horner from Montreal, etc) The wine flowed and when it was time for dessert the stewards broke out the guitar and tamborine and sang 3 songs for her, one being Elvis's song, Fool´s Rush In
Friday, February 15, 2008
Verdansky Station
This afternoon we stopped by an old British research facility that has been turned over to the Ukrainians called Verdansky Station. It is quite a large facility and they spend 12 months straight there and then rotate home. Their primary goal is ozone level monitoring and this station was the discoverer of the hole in the ozone. They send ozone reports in every 3 hours. One of their claims to fame is the best bar in the Antarctic and the NG Endeavor often has requests to bring them 50 KG sacks of sugar (used to make vodka). There is quite an attitude of assistance down here as you might imagine. Ships pick up, deliver and drop off all sorts of goods and people. Anyways, back to the bar, awhile back when it was in British hands they had a load of wood that was meant to make a dock of sorts but winter came early and they were unable to complete the task. So, they decided to use the wood to build a bar. It's a fantastic bar, beautifully carved and I'm sure they use it every single night.
Tradition says that guests partake in a shot of vodka followed by a dip of an orange slice in coffee grounds and sugar. It was actually quite tasty. They have a tiny gift shop and a post office as well. If you had your passport (which we didn't) they would stamp it with an Ukranian stamp. Pretty cool. We partook, had a tour of the station and met the scientists and their support people and of course, the bartender. After our tour we took a Zodiac over to the kayak platform and kayaked for a second time. What a blast. A big brown Skua came swooping out of the air and just missed Dena and I's head, then he proceeded to hover over the front of our kayak for a little bit, about 6 inches off the bow. It was really something as these are huge birds. We had a nice time, saw a Weddel Seal and got some much needed exercise. Another lovely afternoon. This evening we will be heading North up the Lemaire Strait for a second pass.
Tradition says that guests partake in a shot of vodka followed by a dip of an orange slice in coffee grounds and sugar. It was actually quite tasty. They have a tiny gift shop and a post office as well. If you had your passport (which we didn't) they would stamp it with an Ukranian stamp. Pretty cool. We partook, had a tour of the station and met the scientists and their support people and of course, the bartender. After our tour we took a Zodiac over to the kayak platform and kayaked for a second time. What a blast. A big brown Skua came swooping out of the air and just missed Dena and I's head, then he proceeded to hover over the front of our kayak for a little bit, about 6 inches off the bow. It was really something as these are huge birds. We had a nice time, saw a Weddel Seal and got some much needed exercise. Another lovely afternoon. This evening we will be heading North up the Lemaire Strait for a second pass.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Petermann Island
We had the opportunity to land at Petermann Island the morning of the 12th. This is the island that we picked up the Oceanites researchers yesterday? Or the day before, I don't know. All the days run into one another, I have no idea what day of the week it is either. The weather had cleared some and the ocean swells were minor so off we went in the Zodiacs. This island is overrun by Adelie penguins. There is also a couple nesting areas for Blue Eyed Shags. These long necked black and white birds look a little like penguins. We walked around the island which was covered in mud, rocks, penguin guano and snow that had red and green algae bloom on it. The island was colorful and smelly. I walked around for several hours, rock hopping and mud slogging. It was great exercise. We ran into a couple fur seals who you have to keep your distance from as they get quite cranky. When they make a whining sound they are agitated. I got a couple great pictures of birds basically flying right over my head, but mostly I just plopped down on a rock and watched penguin colony drama. There is so much drama and it's rather amusing. Adelie's build a rock or pebble nest, carrying many, many rocks from all over to create themselves a nest. This is to keep the wet and cold from their eggs. Adelie's normally have 2 eggs. They will also steal the rocks from one anothers nests. At one point researchers put some painted neon colored rocks out and took a photograph of what nest they ended up in, then they took a picture the next day and they were all in different nests. I guess the phenomen of "the grass is always greener" is not isolated to humans.
This was a very busy island, the Oceanites people were here and now there is a small 25' yacht (they must have a rough time crossing the Drake Passage) that held 3 frenchmen. They were documenting the 100th anniversary of Charcot (French explorer), they were beaming their notes and video to public schools all around France.
This was a very busy island, the Oceanites people were here and now there is a small 25' yacht (they must have a rough time crossing the Drake Passage) that held 3 frenchmen. They were documenting the 100th anniversary of Charcot (French explorer), they were beaming their notes and video to public schools all around France.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Lemaire Channel + more
Feb 11th morning
Our bottom level cabin has some advantages and disadvantages, one advantage is the drone of the engines makes sleeping glorious and deep. We were awakened several times during the night by small icebergs (very small) banging against the hull. Can be a little unsettling to be sure but we are getting used to it. The morning started with a quick run up to the bridge for our passage through the infamous Lemaire Channel. This is a narrow channel with towering dark mountains looming overhead and glaciers flowing down their steep slopes tumbling into the sea. A breathtaking sight.
After we were through the channel we stopped at Petermann Island (well one zodiac did) to pick up 3 Oceanites researchers who had been working on the island for ~ 2 months. I'm sure they were thrilled to see us. We were unable to land and visit the penguin colony due to the severe weather the night before (rain, sleet and snow) which had turned the island into a penguin guano skating rink. So I stayed on the bridge monitoring the sea and witnessed a leopard seal thrashing about a penguin (lunch no doubt), spotted a few humpback whales off the bow and of course, the normal penguin activity in the water. We are now steaming at full speed south to get out of the weather and getting closer to the Antarctic Circle. What an experience that will be if we are able to make it. Keep your fingers crossed.
Arlene's Workout Tip of the Day
On a small cruise ship in rolling seas taking a wide mouth water bottle with you is a bad idea. Doing the treadmill during rolling seas is not only a cardio workout but also an excellent core muscle workout as you struggle to keep yourself on that skinny tread.
Our bottom level cabin has some advantages and disadvantages, one advantage is the drone of the engines makes sleeping glorious and deep. We were awakened several times during the night by small icebergs (very small) banging against the hull. Can be a little unsettling to be sure but we are getting used to it. The morning started with a quick run up to the bridge for our passage through the infamous Lemaire Channel. This is a narrow channel with towering dark mountains looming overhead and glaciers flowing down their steep slopes tumbling into the sea. A breathtaking sight.
After we were through the channel we stopped at Petermann Island (well one zodiac did) to pick up 3 Oceanites researchers who had been working on the island for ~ 2 months. I'm sure they were thrilled to see us. We were unable to land and visit the penguin colony due to the severe weather the night before (rain, sleet and snow) which had turned the island into a penguin guano skating rink. So I stayed on the bridge monitoring the sea and witnessed a leopard seal thrashing about a penguin (lunch no doubt), spotted a few humpback whales off the bow and of course, the normal penguin activity in the water. We are now steaming at full speed south to get out of the weather and getting closer to the Antarctic Circle. What an experience that will be if we are able to make it. Keep your fingers crossed.
Arlene's Workout Tip of the Day
On a small cruise ship in rolling seas taking a wide mouth water bottle with you is a bad idea. Doing the treadmill during rolling seas is not only a cardio workout but also an excellent core muscle workout as you struggle to keep yourself on that skinny tread.
Antarctic Circle
We all had gathered on the bridge for the big event after dinner. We have steamed due south all day (weather precluded us from doing much of anything else) heading for the Antarctic Circle. Few cruise ships get to come down this far so this was very exciting to all of us and me especially. The Antarctic Circle is @ 66 degrees and 33 minutes latitude. This area differs much from the Arctic circle as quite a number of people live @ or above the Arctic Circle, in areas like Siberia, Alaska, Canada, Scandanvia, etc. Down at the Antarctic Circle, perhaps only a handful of people live. As we were waiting for that magical yellow line to appear in the water (ok, not an actual line but the GPS tick away the seconds) we were marvelling at the number of icebergs around us, how close they all were and especially admiring this really big one off our port side. I ran down the bow stairs to get a picture of it and all of a sudden a big thunderous cracking could be heard. And BAM, it calved right in front of us all. It was an amazing moment in time as in slow motion this huge hunk of ice tumbled into the water and broke up. The wave it created came racing toward the ship but it was not big enough to cause the Captain any concern.
As luck would have it this was the Antarctic Circle as well so we basically just did a U turn around this huge iceberg and began heading back north. The ice debris from the calving was floating all around us and the Captain and his bridge crew were very vigilant in watching all the bergs around us. By the way, small icebergs or iceberg pieces are called "bergie bits". The kitchen crew served us mulled wine and a small celebration was had on the bow. It was great fun and a moment in the small history of our lives.
We were headed back North to Petermann Island, the Lemaire channel again and then points unknown. I can see the draw of Antarctica as I just want to go further south. I want to know what's around the next island, the next majestic mountain, the next iceberg. Alas, I'm not driving.....
As luck would have it this was the Antarctic Circle as well so we basically just did a U turn around this huge iceberg and began heading back north. The ice debris from the calving was floating all around us and the Captain and his bridge crew were very vigilant in watching all the bergs around us. By the way, small icebergs or iceberg pieces are called "bergie bits". The kitchen crew served us mulled wine and a small celebration was had on the bow. It was great fun and a moment in the small history of our lives.
We were headed back North to Petermann Island, the Lemaire channel again and then points unknown. I can see the draw of Antarctica as I just want to go further south. I want to know what's around the next island, the next majestic mountain, the next iceberg. Alas, I'm not driving.....
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Dinner With Jay Dickman
Feb 10th Evening
We came back to our cabin to an invitation to dinner with Jay Dickman the National Geographic Photographer. We were certainly looking forward to this event and went back to the cabin to put on our best duds. We don't really have much in the fancy cruise ship dinner wear as our clothing choices focused mainly on warmth. But we found something. Dinner was wonderful with Dena being escorted to the table arm in arm with the first officer. We had a nice meal and more importantly some excellent conversation. Jay is a story teller and he certainly has many to tell. From Denengue Fever in Papau New Guinea to a war correspondent in Central America he's been through a lot and we enjoyed them all. The conversation eventually turned to good natured ribbing about how I broke my camera and how Canada is the 51st state, etc, etc. That's ok, Jay had spent months in the Yukon and couldn't say enough about what a beautiful country Canada is. We may be liberal in politics and be known as the country that is the party loft above a more serious USA but we are good people, we know how to have fun and enjoy life.
We came back to our cabin to an invitation to dinner with Jay Dickman the National Geographic Photographer. We were certainly looking forward to this event and went back to the cabin to put on our best duds. We don't really have much in the fancy cruise ship dinner wear as our clothing choices focused mainly on warmth. But we found something. Dinner was wonderful with Dena being escorted to the table arm in arm with the first officer. We had a nice meal and more importantly some excellent conversation. Jay is a story teller and he certainly has many to tell. From Denengue Fever in Papau New Guinea to a war correspondent in Central America he's been through a lot and we enjoyed them all. The conversation eventually turned to good natured ribbing about how I broke my camera and how Canada is the 51st state, etc, etc. That's ok, Jay had spent months in the Yukon and couldn't say enough about what a beautiful country Canada is. We may be liberal in politics and be known as the country that is the party loft above a more serious USA but we are good people, we know how to have fun and enjoy life.
Port Lockroy

We moved from Cuverville Island to Port Lockroy. A nice sheltered bay with a British station on a tiny little island. The Brits have turned this old winter station into a museum, post office and shopping mall. Finally, we could shop! The Brits abandoned the island about 30 years ago and only recently re-established it. In the meantime the Gentoo penguins had moved in. The island is now inhabited by 3 British station agents and ~ 4,000 Gentoo penguins and their chicks.
We made landfall in a light snow and were the first boat ashore for a change. This proved to our advantage as by the time we came out of the station the snow had turned horizontal from the wind. I had wanted more time to explore the island and hang out with the chicks but the weather was deteriorating and it wasn't good for the camera. We jumped on board and went back to the ship with our treasures in hand and hopefully some postcards with Antarctic stamps and cancellations going out to some of you. Scroll down for more pictures
Monday, February 11, 2008
Cuverville Island
Sunday Feb. 10th, 2008
We arrived first thing this morning after a run south down the Antarctic Penisula to a small island called Cuverville. The bay we entered was calm as glass with glaciers calving into the sea, penguins porpoising all around us and a large Gentoo breeding colony on shore. Today, we kayaked. Dena has been excited about this moment from day 1. Dena and I cruised lazily around the bay stopping off shore of some rocks with many Gentoos jumping in and out of the water. They swam around us and we laughed at their antics. The water is so clear that we can see them swimming beside us. Truly magical. Dena then decided she wanted to go thru this thin ice with the Kayak. I didn't really like the idea as the water looked shallow. You could see the eddys around the rocks. But, we headed that way anyways. You know you're about to get into trouble when your paddle will not pierce the ice and rocks loom ahead. But we made it through (not withstanding a little panic on my part) and are richer for the experience.
After kayaking we went ashore to spend some quality time with the penguins up close and personal. I have a picture of Dena (which probably doesn't do it justice) sitting on a whale vertebra (sp?) looking at a Gentoo penguin who is laying on a whale rib about 3 feet in front of her. She probably sat there for 20 minutes, her looking at the Gentoo and it looking at her. We all sat on these large stones that make up the "beach" and just watched the drama of all these penguins coming and going. They look so clumsy as they make their way down this rocky beach to the water, then they literally dip their toe in the water as if to test it, back up, think about it and then wade in. I won't go on and on about the penguins and their babies and the molters so I don't bore you so I just get on to the end of the morning.
I was the last guest on the island. I don't know why this thrills me, but it does..... Dena and Arlene's boat was already in the water, they yelled to me that they hoped I had lots of protein bars because they were leaving me. The last boat (full of staff naturalists) had to wait for me (hehe) and we actually ended up having to tow Dena and Arlene's boat to the Endeavor. The motor had ice in the gas line. Well, it's off to lunch then Port Lockroy which is the only shopping opportunity in Antarctica. Who knew there would be a shopping opportunity.
We arrived first thing this morning after a run south down the Antarctic Penisula to a small island called Cuverville. The bay we entered was calm as glass with glaciers calving into the sea, penguins porpoising all around us and a large Gentoo breeding colony on shore. Today, we kayaked. Dena has been excited about this moment from day 1. Dena and I cruised lazily around the bay stopping off shore of some rocks with many Gentoos jumping in and out of the water. They swam around us and we laughed at their antics. The water is so clear that we can see them swimming beside us. Truly magical. Dena then decided she wanted to go thru this thin ice with the Kayak. I didn't really like the idea as the water looked shallow. You could see the eddys around the rocks. But, we headed that way anyways. You know you're about to get into trouble when your paddle will not pierce the ice and rocks loom ahead. But we made it through (not withstanding a little panic on my part) and are richer for the experience.
After kayaking we went ashore to spend some quality time with the penguins up close and personal. I have a picture of Dena (which probably doesn't do it justice) sitting on a whale vertebra (sp?) looking at a Gentoo penguin who is laying on a whale rib about 3 feet in front of her. She probably sat there for 20 minutes, her looking at the Gentoo and it looking at her. We all sat on these large stones that make up the "beach" and just watched the drama of all these penguins coming and going. They look so clumsy as they make their way down this rocky beach to the water, then they literally dip their toe in the water as if to test it, back up, think about it and then wade in. I won't go on and on about the penguins and their babies and the molters so I don't bore you so I just get on to the end of the morning.
I was the last guest on the island. I don't know why this thrills me, but it does..... Dena and Arlene's boat was already in the water, they yelled to me that they hoped I had lots of protein bars because they were leaving me. The last boat (full of staff naturalists) had to wait for me (hehe) and we actually ended up having to tow Dena and Arlene's boat to the Endeavor. The motor had ice in the gas line. Well, it's off to lunch then Port Lockroy which is the only shopping opportunity in Antarctica. Who knew there would be a shopping opportunity.
Labels:
Antarctica,
Cuverville Island,
Gentoo Penguin,
Lindblad
Saturday, February 09, 2008
Deception Island
Every day here is filled with so many experiences that it would fill volumes. It's hard to contain myself sometimes on the blog and not bore you too much, but there is much to tell.
Finally we got some sleep after our long day yesterday. 7am wake up call - we were at the mouth of Deception Island. I was thrilled. I had been looking forward to this since we planned the trip. Deception Island is a huge, still active volcano that last erupted in 1970. Think of it as a circle with a small entrance to the inside. A picture is worth a thousand words. The best way to describe the look is to click on this link. The entrance to this massive bay is called Neptune's Bellows as it is a narrow channel that swirls with eddys on most days and a ship must watch closely not to be run up on the rocks. Today, the sea was calm and we sailed easily in. We parked just off of Whaler's Bay and lowered the zodiacs. There are many bays within this large bay, and whaler's bay is where whaling operations ran from ~ 1905 to 1928. It's like a ghost town with whale bones, large blubber oil storage tanks, old whaling skiffs and all sorts of wonderful relics to entertain us. We spent hours here running up and down miles of black lava sand beaches taking pictures of everything.
As I made my way back in the zodiac I was feeling a little bummed as I had a spot on my camera. I had to get back to the ship and clean it as we were due to disembark an hour later. Today was to be a busy day and I certainly didn't want to miss a thing. In the room I went to clean the mirror inside the camera (a task I've done before on my Nikon film camera) and all of a sudden out popped 3 pieces (the focusing assembly). I was horrified. What was I going to do? I dropped to my knees and started to cry. Here's my $ 1,000 camera, my $ 10,000 trip and there will be no pictures. Then an idea ocurred to me. We have a National Geographic photographer (pulitzer prize winner) on board and he is sponsored by Olympus, my camera's brand. Perhaps he can help. I was nauseous. I waited like a cat in a room full of rocking chairs by the zodiac disembarkation hatch for Jay Dickman to arrive. Each boat that came raised my anxiousness. He said he would try to help later in the evening as he only had time to change for the next trip but in the meantime he had a spare camera body for me. Wow, imagine my luck. Well, I'll make a long story short, this evening he popped the pieces in and all seems to be running fine. Tomorrow we shall see if it holds up. Wish me luck.
Speaking of award winning photographers.......tonight Jay did a photo critique of photos that we were allowed to submit from yesterday. Both Arlene and I received kudos for some of our photos. Arlene received great praise for her shots of "inside the life of a ship" and I got one for the sunset shot (as well as a few others). There were many awesome pictures and much was learned. Scroll down for photos.....
Finally we got some sleep after our long day yesterday. 7am wake up call - we were at the mouth of Deception Island. I was thrilled. I had been looking forward to this since we planned the trip. Deception Island is a huge, still active volcano that last erupted in 1970. Think of it as a circle with a small entrance to the inside. A picture is worth a thousand words. The best way to describe the look is to click on this link. The entrance to this massive bay is called Neptune's Bellows as it is a narrow channel that swirls with eddys on most days and a ship must watch closely not to be run up on the rocks. Today, the sea was calm and we sailed easily in. We parked just off of Whaler's Bay and lowered the zodiacs. There are many bays within this large bay, and whaler's bay is where whaling operations ran from ~ 1905 to 1928. It's like a ghost town with whale bones, large blubber oil storage tanks, old whaling skiffs and all sorts of wonderful relics to entertain us. We spent hours here running up and down miles of black lava sand beaches taking pictures of everything.
As I made my way back in the zodiac I was feeling a little bummed as I had a spot on my camera. I had to get back to the ship and clean it as we were due to disembark an hour later. Today was to be a busy day and I certainly didn't want to miss a thing. In the room I went to clean the mirror inside the camera (a task I've done before on my Nikon film camera) and all of a sudden out popped 3 pieces (the focusing assembly). I was horrified. What was I going to do? I dropped to my knees and started to cry. Here's my $ 1,000 camera, my $ 10,000 trip and there will be no pictures. Then an idea ocurred to me. We have a National Geographic photographer (pulitzer prize winner) on board and he is sponsored by Olympus, my camera's brand. Perhaps he can help. I was nauseous. I waited like a cat in a room full of rocking chairs by the zodiac disembarkation hatch for Jay Dickman to arrive. Each boat that came raised my anxiousness. He said he would try to help later in the evening as he only had time to change for the next trip but in the meantime he had a spare camera body for me. Wow, imagine my luck. Well, I'll make a long story short, this evening he popped the pieces in and all seems to be running fine. Tomorrow we shall see if it holds up. Wish me luck.
Speaking of award winning photographers.......tonight Jay did a photo critique of photos that we were allowed to submit from yesterday. Both Arlene and I received kudos for some of our photos. Arlene received great praise for her shots of "inside the life of a ship" and I got one for the sunset shot (as well as a few others). There were many awesome pictures and much was learned. Scroll down for photos.....
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